As promised, I have begun to drink my cellar. I approached the wine three times as it opened. Last night I pulled out:
Louis Jadot Volnay Clos de la Barre 2003 Appellation 1er Cru Controlee
Volnay is one of my favorite communes in the middle of the Cotes de Beaune. The wines are typically elegant and lighter weight. There are twenty six Premier Cru or First Growth vineyards in Volnay. Premier Cru are individual plots that consistently produce wine of similar aroma, body, colour and vigor. In Burgundy, these Cru were formalized in 1861.
First approach: Deep glistening garnet. Aromas of fresh meat, raw tenderloin, oak staves, geranium, morel mushroom, band aids and cooked carrot. Silken dusty dry attack of dense mid weight tannins and dank acidity. Bitter almond, banana peel sensation. Very ‘masculine’ and muscular for a Volnay. Wonderfully complex and elegant but much more giant than one would expect.
Second approach: Orange blossom and honeysuckle, acetone and popsicle stick. Raw silk attack with mild even tannins and acidity that rides alongside in perfect balance. Meaty, floral feeling in the mouth that expands and skips over the palate, lingering sweetly on the lips. I have to keep reminding myself that this is a twelve year old wine! Now it’s opening to bitter-sweet cherry and nutmeg. It’s absolutely silky smooth and savoury with sweet notes of cherry and leather, pomegranate and vicks cherry cough drops.
Third approach: Poopy. Balsa wood, cedar, juniper berry and wood shavings. Deep juniper berry attack that opens to stinging acidity and juicy cherry fruit. The mouth feel is still raw silk with deep fruit and bright acidity. I think this wine is absolutely at its’ peak! It takes the palate apart and puts it back together in the same mouthful. It’s giving aromas now of fresh cut lilac and rose stems.
…I couldn’t help myself… the next day: Deep even garnet hue. Christmas candies, pulled taffy and wild cherry. Juniper and chalk dust. A favorite old sweater. Sweet silken attack that opens wide to bright acidity and dry smooth tannins like dark chocolate. There’s a pretty sweetness at the beginning of each sip that quickly dries out as the wine explores every crevice of the mouth. Delightful.
I think I’m going to enjoy this project.