I remember Zinfandel from the days of “Angel’s Visits ” http://www.amazon.ca/Angels-Visits-Inquiry-Mystery-Zinfandel/dp/0805016082. When it looked like Zinfandel had finally stepped onto the world stage as a serious contender. There was romance, mystery and spice surrounding this exotic sounding fruit but there was backbone and street and dirt too.
Lately though, Zinfandel has fallen, not so much out of favor but, into the background. Most stores have a handful of Zins, but the innovators… the big guys, the big guns are nowhere to be seen. It’s as though they’ve been forgotten. Evaporated in the mist.
I’ve been feeling nostalgic lately and have had my eye on a bottle of Deloach Zinfandel at Sherbrooke for awhile. I was lucky to find this one. It was hiding out on a bottom shelf. I finally got it home, let it rest and opened it tonight.
Dinner was the butcher’s pork schnitzel with fennel and parsley salad and a good old baked potato with sour cream. The wine was a very good foil for the rich food. It was dark and bright at once and it opened lush and innocent in contrast to the crispy, savory meat. But as the evening wore on and the wine opened up, it’s dark mysteries were revealed.
The bright, medium toned tannins stretched wide in concert with the perfectly balanced acidity, to creep in between every single tooth, singing and rippling right down to the tips of the roots. It was seriously intense but in a playful way that made me want to savor each mouthful, taking smaller and smaller sips as the liquid in my glass diminished.
All this from a winery dedicated to sustainable, bio dynamic farming and expressive sites. It just doesn’t get any better.
This DeLoach Zinfandel took me back to the days of Angels Visits; it reminded me of my other old favorites like Seghesio, Ravenswood and Peachy Canyon … may their names live on! These days it’s a rare store that dares stock these lustrous gems. There may be Zinfandel on the shelf but the big guns, the ground-breakers aren’t always there.
I was feeling nostalgic when I brought this DeLoach Zinfandel home but this wine brought me right smack into the present with a visceral, meaty attack and a lush astringent acidity that grabbed right on to my teeth. I just couldn’t get enough.
I’m gonna put my money where my mouth is and hunt down my other heroes and unless they let me down I will give you the low down right here.